Day 21

Thursday 18 Oct 2018

In the dark our yaks looked like giant shadows just metres from our tent. They remained motionless throughout the night apart from occasional munching which set off the soft chime of their bells and lulled us to sleep.



After yesterday’s antics from their missing friend, it seemed as though they were on best behaviour and continued in this manner for the rest of the day. Yaks are fiercely independent, they don’t go in single file and will often disappear into the vegetation either side of the path where they remain silent until they are convinced no one is looking, then turn round and head back to their village or pasture!

The threat of a storm seemed unlikely and the low mist soon started to rise and give way to sun shine. Jeje Kangpho towered on the horizon along with Table Mountain giving us one final farewell to the frontier range and Tibet beyond. We were now heading in a consistent southerly direction, the climb to the pass was promised to be hard with steep bolder fields, but a well made and worn path got us there in three steep sections. 

We reached the Jaze La (5150m) in good time and a short descent brought us to our lunch stop which, today, was a 5000m buffet! I had heard the cook chopping and preparing our lunch at 4:30am then carefully organising them in 5 tiered ‘tiffins’ which goes in an insulated container. Our team work so hard, we did however loose another member today as the assistant Cook had spent most of yesterday afternoon drinking and lying in the sun so was sent back by Tshering- where he will have ended up we are not quite sure! The trail descended past two small blue lakes and continues to the larger Tsochena Lake (4950m) where we camped. Arriving at 2pm we were hopeful of some airing and drying time but a snow flurry soon came in and it was time to retreat to our sleeping bags- soon we were brought our afternoon hot water bottles, remember this is the hardest trek in the World!


Distance 12km 7hrs

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